Day 2: Negombo to Kandy

We began our day with a visit to a spice plantation en route to Kandy. Upon reaching Kandy, we made a lunch stop at Sthree Cafe local Craft Shop supported by G Adventures. While I found the Sarong I purchased to be a bit overpriced, I considered it a way of supporting the local G Adventures initiative, especially as it allowed me entry into the Temple of the Tooth.

The Temple of the Tooth, housing the relic of Buddha’s tooth, is an awe-inspiring site dating back over 2,500 years. What struck me the most was the realization that Buddha was indeed a historical figure. Learning about the significance of custodianship of the relic as a symbol of the right to rule the island was a particularly fascinating insight.

We stayed at a cute hotel called the Winter Villa, in Kandy.

Day 3: Kandy

Today was our “free day” in our G Adventures trip, some of us chose to explore the Sigiriya Rock Fortress, a 100 km journey taking about 2 hours by car from our accommodation. Our guide, Lakmal, efficiently organized transportation for those of us interested in visiting the rock.

Meanwhile, the remaining members of our group opted for a relaxing day by the pool. Before heading to the pool, we took a brief tour of the Royal Botanical Gardens, enjoying the lush scenery for about an hour. As the midday heat intensified, around 12 PM, we made our way to the Thilanka Hotel, which boasted a stunning infinity pool along with excellent drinks and service at the bar.

In the late afternoon, around 4 PM, we reconvened with the rest of the group for massages at the Ayurveda Wedagedara. Regrettably, the experience fell short of our expectations. It appeared to cater primarily to tourists and felt like a hurried assembly line, lacking the attention to detail and quality we had anticipated. This sentiment was echoed in the Google reviews, which averaged 3.5 stars. Words like “tourist trap” and “price manipulation” were common themes, indicating that the establishment might be incentivizing tourist guides and taxi drivers with commissions to bring visitors there.

Day 4: Kandy to Ella

The following day, we embarked on a scenic 4-hour road journey to Ella, where we were welcomed by the serene surroundings of Amba Estate, a charming tea plantation hotel. Nestled amidst lush greenery, Amba Estate offered a variety of accommodation options, including private rooms and three cozy cottages, each capable of accommodating around nine guests. The communal spaces were thoughtfully designed, featuring an assortment of books, games, and lounge areas, perfect for group gatherings or family relaxation.

The culinary experience at Amba Estate truly captured the essence of Sri Lankan cuisine. From the rich and aromatic Rice and Curry to the satisfying Roti, and the flavorful array of Sambols and the tangy Fish Ambul Thiyal, each dish was a delightful journey for the taste buds. The authentic flavors and carefully crafted recipes showcased the diversity and vibrancy of Sri Lankan culinary tradition, leaving a lasting impression on all who had the pleasure of dining there.

Despite not being overly large, the meal portions were perfectly portioned and impeccably seasoned. Each bite left me feeling content and satisfied, without any temptation to overindulge. The meticulous balance of flavors and the high quality of the ingredients ensured that every meal was a memorable and enjoyable experience, satisfying both my appetite and my palate.

Day 5: Ella

We gathered at 8 AM to begin a popular hike in Ella, ascending to Ella Rock. What made this hike unique was our starting point at Amba Estate, granting us access to a private hill exclusive to guests of the estate. It’s worth noting that the initial part of the hike traverses through grassy terrain, where leeches can be found, so wearing leech socks is advisable. Despite encountering a few leeches along the way, I found the experience manageable and not as daunting as some internet sources may suggest.

The ascent to Ella’s Rock took approximately 2.5 hours, rewarding us with breathtaking views overlooking the canyon below. While the scenery was undeniably spectacular, I couldn’t help but acknowledge that similar vistas might exist elsewhere in the world, showcasing expansive canyons surrounded by lush vegetation.

However, the true highlight of the excursion was the descent. Following the tourist trail back down provided a fascinating glimpse into local life. As we descended, we meandered through a vast tea plantation, enveloped in the soothing aroma of fresh tea leaves. Along the way, we passed by charming villages, where life seemed to move at a slower pace. We observed villagers engaged in simple yet meaningful activities, such as children playing in the crystal-clear river, while nearby, men and women were diligently laundering clothes by the water’s edge.

The final stretch of the hike was particularly memorable, as we strolled along a scenic train track, eventually reaching Ella town. There, we were treated to a delicious lunch provided by Amba Estate. The standout dish was a flavorful sambol, which perfectly complemented the satisfying conclusion to our challenging morning hike.

Overall, the hike down was a humbling experience to witness the beauty of life’s simplicity, a reminder to cherish the moments of tranquility and appreciate the little joys that each day brings.

The day wasn’t over just yet! Following our 4.5-hour hike, we made our way to the Nine Arches Bridge, a renowned tourist spot in Ella. A brief 10-minute hike led us to this architectural marvel, offering breathtaking views that were perfect for capturing spectacular Instagram photos.

After spending around 30 minutes capturing memorable shots for our social media pages, we hiked a little further and hopped into a tuk-tuk and headed to the Ravana Pool Club. Here, we concluded our day at yet another infinity pool, surrounded by lively vibes, DJ beats, and a vibrant bar. One of the highlights was the Instagram-worthy swing, though there was a fee to use it. Though I didn’t pay the “swing fee” the resulting photos I have seen seem to be well worth the fee.

After a tiring day, we enjoyed a tea tasting session with teas from Amba Estate, followed by a cooking class where we learned to make the same Sambol we had for lunch. We ended the day with another authentic Sri Lankan meal prepared by Amba Estate’s chefs, savoring the rich flavors and reminiscing about the day’s adventures.

Day 6: Ella to Udawalawa

We departed from Amba Estate and headed to Udawalawa, where we visited the Udawalawa Elephants Transit Home, an elephant sanctuary. It’s advisable to visit during feeding times, as you can witness hundreds of elephants, from babies to adults, being fed and playing in the water just 20 meters away.

Following the feeding, we embarked on a safari tour of the 30,000-hectare Udawalawe National Park, renowned for its large population of elephants in their natural habitat.

After the wildlife safari, we checked into the Royal Tusker hotel, where we enjoyed a home-cooked chicken meal prepared on the BBQ, along with AC rooms and hot showers.

Day 7 Udawalawa to Unawatuna

We embarked on an early morning drive lasting 1.5 hours to reach Yala National Park, renowned for boasting the highest leopard density in the world. Arriving at sunrise, we were thrilled to spot two leopards within the first 30 minutes! To put this into perspective, during a four-day visit to the Serengeti last year, I only saw one leopard. Even during a six-week stint as a volunteer across three different wildlife reserves in South Africa, leopard sightings were rare. Given their elusive nature due to camouflage, nocturnal behavior, and solitary tendencies, witnessing two leopards in such a short span affirmed the park’s claim of highest leopard density in the world.